The FIRST Spring Steel Slot Drag Car Chassis ever made!

Set the Pro-Stock Record in its First Race and is STILL SETTING THE STANDARD.

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This chassis has been designed for the Blown Doorslammer or Pro-Stock class and all classes that use a doorslammer type body with a cobalt strap motor at a minimum weight of 90 grams. Our chassis has floating pans to make the weight instead of lead weights added as ballast because this class of car needs to have a means of absorbing the shock of the launch. The motor box has been designed for Group 7 or 27 Strap Type Cobalt Motors and when used with the correct gears, the motor angle and gear meshes are optimum. The Choice of The Fast Crowd!

Classes Recommended for: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock, Quick 16, and Brackets

CHOOSING THE PROPER CHASSIS CONFIGURATION: SDRA Pro Stock cars must weight 90 grams, and to make weight you will usually need to include the pans that come with the chassis. They may be left in place attached to the chassis or cut loose and hinged, if desired. Body mounts can also be made static or hinged. If floating body mounts are desired, a floating body mount kit intended for road race cars can be used. To hinge the pans, use .032 wire and 1/16' brass square tubing, as shown.

REMOVING PARTS FROM MAIN CHASSIS: First, put on safety goggles or glasses, then use your moto-tool fitted with the cut-off wheel to remove the rear uprights, and front axle holder from the main chassis. Cut tabs, then trim sharp stubs from both parts & chassis. If the pans are to be hinged, cut tabs to remove them, then trim sharp stubs.

BEGINNING ASSEMBLY: Trim flash from slots for uprights and front axle holder until parts fit easily, then, using 280 or 320 grit Wet-or-dry, sand top side of chassis and both sides of uprights and axle holder. If pans are to be hinged, their topside and front slot should be sanded also. Gray coating on steel should be removed down to bare metal. This will make soldering much easier, and save flux.

SOLDERING PARTS IN PLACE: Place chassis on heat-proof soldering block, then set one upright in place, flux joint and put hot soldering iron with small amount of solder melted on tip into seam between parts, then move back and forth slowly until solder smoothly fills seam. Repeat on other side of upright, then on opposite upright. Wash chassis with hot, soapy water, then dry, after each soldering operation. Don't forget to clean flux off soldering block each time you wash chassis. This will help prevent rusting, and preserve the chassis appearance. Solder front axle holder in place, using the same procedure. Add solder till joint is smoothly filleted.

BODY MOUNTS: Floating front mounts need a piece of larger tubing soldered to the chassis first, then the pin tubing inserted through from the outside, with retainer already soldered in place. Then the inner retainer is soldered to the pin tubing. The front mount can go on the front of the pan, or the front pad of the chassis itself, or the front axle can also be used the choice is yours. Rear mounts usually have a one-piece crossbar with retainers only on the outside. Again, solder larger tubing pair to chassis first, making sure they are lined up with each other. Solder a retainer to the pin tubing near one end, then insert the pin tubing through the floater tubing and solder second retainer to pin tubing, leaving a little side play. Be very careful with the flux and use very little solder, or the 'floating' assembly can be soldered solid quite easily. Trim off pin tubing flush with the outside of the retainers, and you're through.

PAN MOUNTING: The pan hinges are made of .032 piano wire bent into an 'L' shape and inserted into lengths of 1/16' brass square tubing. After the parts are bent, use the moto-tool to deburr the ends of the wire, then insert into the brass tube. Solder the brass tube to the front chassis pad, then solder the .032 wire into the slot in the pan. The rear of the pan hangs from the rear crossbar of the body mount, and is attached by small 'L' shaped hangers, or a 'U' that fits across between the pans.

FRONT AXLE AND WHEELIE BARS: Each has an axle with retainers outside and inside of both wheels. The front axle should be made from 1 piece of DRS-146 Stainless Pin Tubing First solder front axle in place on the axle stand and then using DRS-142 Retainers soldered or super-glued on each side of the DRS-148 Drilled Front Wheels. Thread the wheel, an inner retainer, another inner retainer, then the other wheel onto the axle and move them to the end already soldered. Now solder the other outer retainer to the axle and wash and dry all parts. Now solder inner retainers in place and leave enough clearance so that the wheels rotate freely. Wash and dry again, then oil wheels.. DRS-138 Wheelie axle assembly should be soldered on only after rear tires and guide flag with braid are installed.

Classes Recommended For: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock, Quick 16, Comp Eliminator, And Brackets, Recommended Bodies: DRS-503 Camaro, DRS-513 Firebird (For P/S) DRS-515 Stealth, DRS-516 Stingray (Can Be Used In Other Classes), Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels Or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box TubingCHOOSING THE PROPER CHASSIS CONFIGURATION: SDRA Pro Stock cars must weight 90 grams, and to make weight you will usually need to include the pans that come with the chassis. They may be left in place attached to the chassis or cut loose and hinged, if desired. Body mounts can also be made static or hinged. If floating body mounts are desired, a floating body mount kit intended for road race cars can be used. To hinge the pans, use .032 wire and 1/16' brass square tubing, as shown.

REMOVING PARTS FROM MAIN CHASSIS: First, put on safety goggles or glasses, then use your moto-tool fitted with the cut-off wheel to remove the rear uprights, and front axle holder from the main chassis. Cut tabs, then trim sharp stubs from both parts & chassis. If the pans are to be hinged, cut tabs to remove them, then trim sharp stubs.

BEGINNING ASSEMBLY: Trim flash from slots for uprights and front axle holder until parts fit easily, then, using 280 or 320 grit Wet-or-dry, sand top side of chassis and both sides of uprights and axle holder. If pans are to be hinged, their topside and front slot should be sanded also. Gray coating on steel should be removed down to bare metal. This will make soldering much easier, and save flux.

SOLDERING PARTS IN PLACE: Place chassis on heat-proof soldering block, then set one upright in place, flux joint and put hot soldering iron with small amount of solder melted on tip into seam between parts, then move back and forth slowly until solder smoothly fills seam. Repeat on other side of upright, then on opposite upright. Wash chassis with hot, soapy water, then dry, after each soldering operation. Don't forget to clean flux off soldering block each time you wash chassis. This will help prevent rusting, and preserve the chassis appearance. Solder front axle holder in place, using the same procedure. Add solder till joint is smoothly filleted.

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BODY MOUNTS: Floating front mounts need a piece of larger tubing soldered to the chassis first, then the pin tubing inserted through from the outside, with retainer already soldered in place. Then the inner retainer is soldered to the pin tubing. The front mount can go on the front of the pan, or the front pad of the chassis itself, or the front axle can also be used the choice is yours. Rear mounts usually have a one-piece crossbar with retainers only on the outside. Again, solder larger tubing pair to chassis first, making sure they are lined up with each other. Solder a retainer to the pin tubing near one end, then insert the pin tubing through the floater tubing and solder second retainer to pin tubing, leaving a little side play. Be very careful with the flux and use very little solder, or the 'floating' assembly can be soldered solid quite easily. Trim off pin tubing flush with the outside of the retainers, and you're through.

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PAN MOUNTING: The pan hinges are made of .032 piano wire bent into an 'L' shape and inserted into lengths of 1/16' brass square tubing. After the parts are bent, use the moto-tool to deburr the ends of the wire, then insert into the brass tube. Solder the brass tube to the front chassis pad, then solder the .032 wire into the slot in the pan. The rear of the pan hangs from the rear crossbar of the body mount, and is attached by small 'L' shaped hangers, or a 'U' that fits across between the pans.

FRONT AXLE AND WHEELIE BARS: Each has an axle with retainers outside and inside of both wheels. The front axle should be made from 1 piece of DRS-146 Stainless Pin Tubing First solder front axle in place on the axle stand and then using DRS-142 Retainers soldered or super-glued on each side of the DRS-148 Drilled Front Wheels. Thread the wheel, an inner retainer, another inner retainer, then the other wheel onto the axle and move them to the end already soldered. Now solder the other outer retainer to the axle and wash and dry all parts. Now solder inner retainers in place and leave enough clearance so that the wheels rotate freely. Wash and dry again, then oil wheels.. DRS-138 Wheelie axle assembly should be soldered on only after rear tires and guide flag with braid are installed.

Classes Recommended For: Blown Doorslammer, Pro Stock, Quick 16, Comp Eliminator, And Brackets, Recommended Bodies: DRS-503 Camaro, DRS-513 Firebird (For P/S) DRS-515 Stealth, DRS-516 Stingray (Can Be Used In Other Classes), Parts Recommended To Complete Rolling Chassis: DRS-134 Guide Flag And Nut, DRS-132 Drag Braid, DRS-148 .820 Drilled Front Wheels Or DRS-124 Undrilled Front Wheels, DRS-146 .050 Stainless Steel (2 Required), DRS-142 .047 Retainers Or DRS-143 .063 Retainers, DRS-138 Wheelie Bar Axle With Wheels, TQ Drag Wire, K&S 1/8 X 1/8 Square Box Tubing

Are you looking for the best slot car set? It does not matter if you are a child or an adult. Regardless of age, a slot car set is an incredible toy for people who like cars and excitement. Essentially, you have a small car that is electric and should drive into a slot on a track. This is an incredible option, unlike races that you use to play only in computer games. Here is the best slot car set.

Contents

• 1 Top 5 Best Slot Car Set
  • 1.5 #5. Super Loop Speedway

Top 5 Best Slot Car Set

#1. AFX AFX21017 Giant Set (MG +)

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Every dollar spent will definitely be justified, despite all the difficulties with this set! The track has an absolute length of 19 meters, which makes every race even more stimulating. In addition, it provides additional flexibility because there are three different power settings available.

Customers can outpace, moderate, and master, which means it will take a long time for someone to transcend this toy. Each race starts with a start that lasts five seconds. In addition, there are about 99 laps in each race. It is also easy to accumulate! It contains point by point guidelines from the manufacturer.

#2. Carrera First Nintendo Mario Kart Slot Car Set

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For children who are three years and older, this unit can work. It accompanies a 7.87-foot track, as do two cars, which include Mario and Yoshi. The track offers eight rounds and beyond what two players can play with this set. There are two electronic controls that are deliberately arranged so that children have the opportunity to participate in their race. The meeting and dismantling of the track will also be easy, which can be done effectively by children as well.

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Teenagers from the age of 3 could now grab the controls and drive around this child-friendly, battery-powered race track! Each Carrera First Slotcar Hustling Set highlights an entertaining theme on a racetrack that revolves around its most beloved car, television, movie, or computer game characters. Your child will realize how easy it is to be on the track, with the magnets at the base of the car and electronically controlled speed controls that allow them to ride tirelessly against their companions or relatives.

The race car racing car has always brought the activity and zest of motorsport directly into its own four walls. Currently, you can sit in the driver’s seat and take control while your car races around the track. Teenagers and adults, young and old, can take part in this fast-paced activity and fight for the checkered banner. The slot car set prepared for the race contains everything you need directly in the container so that you can set up the track quickly and start immediately.

#3. Scalextric James Bond Micro Slotcar Racing Set

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In the event that you hunt a slot car set that is perfect regardless of the size of adults, this is undoubtedly what you should choose. In this way, you can reproduce the infamous James Bond vehicle replicas that you can find in the movies. It contains a work of art and today’s Aston Martini DBs, the ideal way to bring out your love for cars. The set includes a 12-foot race track, which can be extended. It is also easy to accumulate and has simple power controls that are an incredible choice for the little ones.

#4. Scalextric ARC One American Classic 1:32 Slot Car Race Set

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It is progressive from an indistinguishable manufacturer of the above article because you can download a good application in your phone that provides a unique method of controlling the vehicle while driving. This also allows customers to open a large group of new highlights.

You can customize each diversion by specifying the number of laps and the name of the driver in addition to other things. You can also check race details and fuel consumption effectively through the application. The track has a total length of 16 feet and four inches. Then, most likely, customers will specify it in three different layouts.

#5. Super Loop Speedway

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With this set, customers will almost certainly appreciate a range of up to 6 meters, making them one of the longest of the elements quickly tested in this manual. It accompanies two Porsche 911 GTS RS with a size of 1:43. It has the circles and curves that energize each race. There are also hybrid tracks, as well as press and lap counter tracks.

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Overall, the best slot car set will be an exceptional extension of the slot. In fact, even adults will appreciate such a toy. With such a large number of alternatives, the above are a part of your overview. Their excellent development will make the breeds particularly stimulating for the little ones.